This piece was originally written by Misia Robins in 2011 for an English assignment that was on our comfort food. Our grade 11 English teacher declared it to be the best piece in our class, and as a prize she was supposed to receive the eggplant sandwich that she wrote about. She has yet to receive it.
I told her ‘No.’ I told her ‘Not tonight. I can’t take it.’ And the next morning I took a bus to Heathrow and hopped a plane back home. Airplane food sucks. Besides, I don’t have much of an appetite. I’m uncomfortable and unhappy with the way I’ve left things. Planes don’t serve the kind of food I need. Planes, by definition, cannot serve comfort food. Comfort food is something familiar and consistent. A dish that reminds me of home and family. When eating becomes a safety net, comfort food is something I can fall back on. It is not the pre-wrapped, dried-out, reheated rice and chickpea dish offered to me by a friendly flight attendant. Airplane food sucks.
So, when on my sixteenth birthday I get off the plane at Terminal 3 and there is no one there to meet me, I take the airport shuttle to the subway, and the subway to King station. I walk the four blocks East to St. Lawrence Market, still carrying all my possessions on my back. I fish through my wallet’s contents – euros and pounds and train ticket stubs – for the purple bill I’d carried with me all summer.
“One eggplant sandwich please. On foccacia. Thanks.”
An eggplant sandwich… the ultimate comfort food. I know exactly what to expect when I peel back that tinfoil wrapper. The well-known smell of oregano, tomatoes, garlic, onion, fried eggplant – It’s the smell of my father’s kitchen. I breathe the smell in and out. It’s good. I haven’t breathed in a while. I manage to claim a seat in the busy market eating space. I take off my big red backpack with a sigh of relief and, sitting down, I rest my feet on it. I take a big sloppy bite of my sandwich.
An eggplant sandwich reminds me of home. I dread moving out of Toronto for fear of inferior eggplant sandwiches. When we lived in university housing my parents would take us to the market almost every Saturday. We’d buy apple cider and fresh produce and listen to the busker who looks like Ray Charles playing Twinkle Twinkle or Frere Jaques on the saxophone. Then we’d cross the street to the bustle of the weekday market. If we’d been good (or rather, if my dad was in a good mood and there was enough money left over after groceries), we’d split an eggplant sandwich. One sandwich is a substantial meal, even for three small people. My brother and I would sit still and strain our ears to hear my father’s paraphrased versions of Don Quixote and Dante’s Inferno. But we have outgrown the stories, the weekly market trips, and these memories have been captured and condensed into the taste of an eggplant sandwich.
The market basement is cozy. Tunes from buskers’ jazz guitars and saxophones find my ears over the white noise of the crowd. This bombardment of the senses leaves no room for regrets. I am tired; travel can be exhausting. I am still so annoyed at myself for leaving Britain without saying a proper good-bye. We both knew my ticket was for today. I should have made some sort of resolution. Screw it. I manage (with some difficulty) to get my jaw around a thick chunk of foccaccia and tear it off. I chew.
Going further back, home is New Jersey. My parents, brothers, cousins, aunts and uncles are all down there right now, enjoying eggplant-parmesan hoagies from Hoagie Haven. There’s this blend of American and Italian foods that I find such reassurance in, and it’s embodied here; the blend of lettuce, onions, peppers, eggplant and tomato sauce sandwiched between two thick slices of foccaccia bread is so satisfying. And it’s the same taste, same ingredients, same ratio each time – unlike girls, eggplant sandwiches are totally reliable. An eggplant sandwich is there for me when I need it.
With each bite the excitement of Europe and Summer seem further away. My situation is controllable. I’ll deal with her later. Right now I need to celebrate my birthday and homecoming with a gift to myself… As birthday presents go, an eggplant sandwich isn’t too bad.